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3 Lessons from Coco Chanel on how to go from outsider to successful innovator

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Photo by Charlota Blunarova from Unsplash.com

From complete outsider, raised in an orphanage, to extraordinarily successful entrepreneur. With radical innovations, she managed to revolutionise a world, that of high fashion, immersed in a mature socio-economic context, dominated by men and reluctant to change. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was the first designer to have a global impact and one of the most influential women of the 20th century. But how did she manage, starting from scratch, to make her way in such a conservative and male-dominated world and end up turning it upside down?

Starting from this question, a new study reveals what are the key conditions that can make the difference for an outsider, leading them to success. The study was published in the journal Enterprise & Society (Cambridge University Press) by Mariachiara Colucci and Simone Ferriani, professors at the Department of Management, University of Bologna, together with Gino Cattani of the NYU Stern School of Business.

“There are three crucial factors behind Coco Chanel’s entrepreneurial success: her unique perspective on the fashion world, her ability to find and cultivate a niche of like-minded supporters, and her ability to exploit the ‘turning points’ of the historical period she lived in,” explains Professor Colucci. “This model, in which these three factors fit together perfectly, gives a clear picture of the seemingly inexplicable path by which some outsiders manage to lead radical innovations.”

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was born in 1883 in a small village in rural France, in conditions of extreme poverty, and grew up in the orphanage of Aubazine Abbey. There, she received a basic education, but also learned to sew. This skill helped her to find her first job in an underwear and hosiery shop in the town of Moulins.

This was the beginning of her career in the fashion world. In 1909 she opened her first business as a hat designer, and by 1916 she was already running a successful business with three clothing shops and hundreds of employees. By 1931, she had 26 ateliers and more than 2,000 employees, with a turnover of 120 million francs (more than 60 million euros today). It was the highest figure in the Parisian fashion world at the time, and it continued to grow. By 1935 turnover had almost doubled.

“Coco Chanel started with a modest cultural baggage and totally lacked a social, economic and symbolic background. When she began her entrepreneurial journey, she was the outsider par excellence, yet she managed to leave an unprecedented mark on the development of the fashion industry,” explains Professor Ferriani. “She is also credited with playing a decisive role in creating the image, and the new social custom, of the modern woman.”

YOUR BACKGROUND MATTERS

According to the researchers, the first crucial element behind Chanel’s entrepreneurial success lies in her education and early experiences outside the fashion world. A position that uniquely shaped her aesthetic vision, allowing her to challenge the pressure imposed by the dominant canons of Parisian haute couture.

The environments in which she grew up and the unconventional stimuli she received gave her the creative freedom she needed to experiment with the radical ideas that would become a cornerstone of elegance throughout the world. For example, the researchers suggest that her sense of rigour, taste for black and white, as well as the idea of “functional” and “natural” clothing, which until then was completely foreign to haute couture, may have been inspired by the Romanesque austerity of Aubazine Abbey, where she grew up. Furthermore, it is thanks to the world of horses and racing frequented at the Chateau de Royallieu, where Chanel lived with her first lover, that the corset disappeared, and men’s trousers and shirts entered women’s wardrobes.

DEVELOP CONNECTIONS

But a radical vision is not enough, she needed to find a way to implement it. Here comes the second element that explains Chanel’s success: her exceptional ability to cultivate strategic connections with sponsors and influential members of Parisian high society.

“Coco Chanel was a seductive personality and an extraordinary networker. Through her social skills, she gained quick access to members of high society and prominent clients whose aesthetic orientations matched her stylistic vision,” explains Colucci. “Our study shows that Chanel’s social network was not only confined to the business world. Instead, it embraced multiple domains, notably the French artistic avant-garde, which readily endorsed the modernist ideals behind her sober aesthetic vision.”

Over the years, Chanel forged relationships and actively worked with artists such as Picasso, Cocteau, Reverdy and Diaghilev. It is also thanks to their support that her innovative style received public exposure in plays, ballets, and films, thus facilitating the fame and success of her creations. She was also an active participant in the Art Deco movement, which led to her most revolutionary design: la petite robe noire, the famous “little black dress” evoked by US Vogue in 1936 as “the Chanel ‘Ford’ dress.”

Photo by Roberto Martinez from Unsplash.com

CONTEXT IS EVERYTHING

Last but not least, there is the context. The third key ingredient in Chanel’s rise was in fact her ability to read and ride the dramatic change in social needs and customs brought about by the First World War. The post-war period was no longer a time for extravagance, and the privations of war had made women more receptive to simplicity and functionality.

“The truth is that Chanel, like all great innovators, was the first to read and anticipate a change in women’s needs, that the Great War only accelerated, paving the way for the birth of the so-called ‘modern woman’,” explains Colucci. “Chanel was ready, her creations perfectly coherent with the new image of women in society. What a few years earlier was seen as a radical expression of the female silhouette, in the roaring 1920s would become the dominant fashion.”

From this in-depth look at Coco Chanel’s extraordinary life, researchers have identified the essential elements that can allow an outsider not only to break into a closed context, but also to revolutionise it and achieve extraordinary success. A radical vision from the margins of society, the ability to cunningly build a network of like-minded supporters, and the arrival of an exogenous shock that accelerates the process of acceptance.

The study was published in the journal Enterprise & Society under the title “From the Margins to the Core of Haute Couture: The Entrepreneurial Journey of Coco Chanel”. The authors are Gino Cattani of the NYU Stern School of Business (USA), Mariachiara Colucci and Simone Ferriani of the Department of Management, University of Bologna.

Strategies

Crucial electrical safety advice for customers 

Before getting started on outdoor projects, it is important to be aware of the electrical safety hazards you may encounter.

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Spring is about to arrive, and the longer days will inspire business owners to get outdoor projects underway. But before getting started, it is important to be aware of the electrical safety hazards you may encounter.

“Starting on outdoor projects is a great way to welcome the warmer weather, but it’s crucial to be aware of potential electrical hazards at home,” said Tim Frankenberg, fire safety engineer for the St. Louis-based Ameren Corporation. “A little prevention goes a long way in keeping your family safe.”

The St. Louis-based Ameren Corporation recommended four electrical safety hazards to avoid this spring:

Electric equipment near water

Water and electricity don’t mix, so a great rule of thumb is to keep electric equipment at least 10 feet away from wet areas. You should also plug into ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), which are designed to shut off the power as needed to prevent a shock. These are typically found in kitchens, bathrooms, garages and outdoors. It is highly encouraged that GFCIs are tested monthly. 

Underground utilities

You can disrupt utility service, including electric, natural gas and more, and even put your life in danger by failing to have underground utility lines clearly marked before digging. Plan the simple do-it-yourself projects that may seem small, including planting trees or installing a mailbox.

Overhead power lines

Stay clear of power lines and wires when trimming vegetation, raising ladders and performing outdoor home maintenance. Always assess your surroundings while trimming or working in your yard or simply call a certified professional to safely handle the work. Remain at least 10 feet away from any overhead power line near your home. 

Indoor electrical cords and electronics for outdoors

Before plugging into an exterior electrical socket, double-check that your cords, lights or fans are rated for outdoor use. Look for labels on packaging that clearly mark them as suitable for outdoor use. Also, avoid running cords through door or window openings where they can be damaged, and pair them with GFCIs instead. 

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Strategies

How your business can cut costs related to plumbing

Business owners should take proactive measures to identify and fix plumbing leaks heading into the warmer months.

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Business owners should take proactive measures to identify and fix plumbing leaks heading into the warmer months.

“Warmer temperatures are headed our way as spring begins to take hold,” Levi Torres of High 5 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric said. “Pretty soon, air conditioners will stay on a little longer and energy bills will begin to rise. One of the best ways to offset those costs is to check your plumbing for any leaks that could be increasing water usage.”

According to the EPA, people wastes nearly 10,000 gallons of water every year due to unknown leaks in the home, offices, et cetera. In addition, 10% of establishments waste 90 gallons or more per day.

To help your business cut costs related to plumbing, the experts at High 5 recommend the following tips to help recognize plumbing leaks:

  • Check the flapper in the toilet periodically to ensure it isn’t old or worn out. This can cause the toilet to silently leak thousands of gallons of water a year or cause it to flush on its own. Replacing the flapper can be an easy, cost-effective way to prevent toilet leaks.
  • Inspect the washers and gaskets on your faucets. Old washers can be a primary culprit for leaky faucets, causing a home to waste more than 3,000 gallons per year.
  • Check the showerhead for frequent dripping after usage. A showerhead that drips 10 times per minute can waste over 500 gallons per year. Simply tightening the connection or replacing the showerhead can be a cheap option to prevent leaks.

“While some simple leaks can be prevented by replacing small parts, it’s always important to call a licensed plumber if you suspect you have major leaks inside your home,” said Torres. “Leaks behind a wall or with a water heater can be much more complicated and need professional attention. If left untreated, they can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. Never leave a leak left untreated.”

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Strategies

‘Ugh, not that song!’ Background music impacts employees

When background music at a workplace is out of sync with what workers need to do their jobs, it can affect their energy, mood – and even performance.

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Have you ever gone to a store or a restaurant where the music was so annoying that you walked right out? Now imagine what it must be like for the employees.

In a study, researchers found that when background music at a workplace is out of sync with what workers need to do their jobs, it can affect their energy, mood – and even performance.

“Music that doesn’t fit what an employee needs to feel energized, manage emotions, and focus on task can have a real negative impact,” said Kathleen Keeler, co-lead author of the study and assistant professor of management and human resources at The Ohio State University’s Fisher College of Business. “We found that a music misfit can lead employees to feel more fatigued, have trouble focusing, and not really enjoy being at work. And that in turns prompts them to engage in behaviors that can harm the organization.”

The problem is worse for people who have difficulty screening out background noise from their environment, the study found.

It is an understudied issue, Keeler said.  About 13.5 million people work in occupations where background music is common. But the music is often chosen with only customers in mind.

“It is a mistake for managers to assume that music doesn’t affect employees,” Keeler said.

The study was published online in the Journal of Applied Psychology.

Study in focus

The researchers conducted two studies. One study involved 166 full-time workers who participated online. Before they began, participants rated how much they needed four features of music: volume, speed, complexity and emotional intensity. The participants then listened to one of two playlists while they conducted a creativity task.

One playlist was upbeat, happy pop music with moderate complexity. The other was slower, more somber music played at a lower volume.

After completing the task, participants rated how much the music they heard fit their needs for volume, speed, complexity and emotional intensity.

Results in focus

The findings showed participants experienced a negative impact if the characteristics of the playlist they listened to was out of sync with what they said they needed. Those who had a music misfit showed a decrease in pleasant feelings and emotions and also more cognitive depletion – a feeling of mental exhaustion, Keeler said.

The problem was particularly acute for people referred to as non-screeners. “Stimulus screening” is the ability to focus on one sensory input at a time. Non-screeners have difficulty doing that and – in this case – were unable to ignore the music in the background while they concentrated on their task.

“The bad effects of music misfit are worse for those who are non-screeners,” Keeler said. “They have difficulty blocking out the music and so they feel less positive emotion and feel more depleted after listening to the music that was out of sync with what they needed.”

The second study was a real-world sample of 68 workers in health care offices, retail stores and dining halls where background music was a feature of their everyday work life. Participants completed three email surveys every day for three weeks about their musical needs, the music they heard, their moods, cognitive depletion and various actions at work.

The findings confirmed results of the first study and added another wrinkle: Music misfit had an impact on job performance.  Participants were more likely to act in ways that hurt the company – and less likely to do positive things – on days when they felt out of sync with the music they heard.

Music affects actions

Negative actions could include working more slowly, talking negatively about the workplace with other employees, and pilfering office supplies. Positive actions included helping a fellow worker on a project that was outside their direct responsibilities.

“It can affect the bottom line of companies if their employees are not being productive because they are being drained and distracted by the music they hear all day,” Keeler said. “Their performance suffers.”

The results suggest that employers need to take into consideration the musical wants and needs of their employees.

“Employers should try to strike a balance between making sure their music appeals to both customers and employees, because this is not a trivial matter,” Keeler said.  “If their employees aren’t happy, that is not going to be good for the business.”

Employers can also ensure there are places in the workplace where employees can escape the music during their breaks. In addition, they could invest in earbuds using smart technology that allows wearers to hear conversations from customers while screening out some background noises, including music.

And while this was not a focus of this study, the results also suggest that workers may be happier and more productive if they are allowed to listen to their own music when appropriate.

Let them listen to their music

“I know some managers are reluctant to allow employees to listen to their own music, but our research suggests that there are a lot of benefits, including productivity, engagement and well-being,” she said.

Harshad Puranik of the University of Illinois-Chicago was co-lead author.  Other co-authors were Yue Wang of the University of Illinois-Chicago, and Jingfeng Yin of The Hong Kong, Polytechnic University.

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