Not all provinces in the Philippines have memorable local cuisines. Some that stand out are Kapampangan, Cebuano, and… yep, Bicolano. We all know, for instance, that gata or coconut milk is widely used in usually-spicy Bicolano food. That’s because many of us have tasted at least some of their offerings, no matter where we may be in the country.

@outragemag In #legazpialbay for this #LGBT wandering, checking out what #Bicol ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

And so – while in Legazpi City – we headed to Small Talk Café, this known restaurant offering supposedly authentic and deconstructed delicacies from the Bicol region.

How was Small Talk Café naman?

Una, the restaurant is easy to find. It helps that people know of it, so you can take public transport and – yep – you will be taken there.

Ikalawa, the actual restaurant is… antiquated. It actually looks like someone’s provincial house that’s been converted into a dining place, so don’t expect much design-wise. But at least you get ample seating in a not-that-tight space.

Ikatlo, most of the people working there are women who know the venue’s offerings. There are some half-truths given (e.g. their version of the sili ice cream not properly explained), but overall, they were helpful naman.

Ika-apat, how was the food?

• The Pinangat/Laing (₱110) was properly cooked, with melt-in-your mouth taro leaves blending well with the coconut milk.
• The Pasta Mayon (₱275) reminded me of spicy pansit in some Chinese restaurant. Not to everyone’s liking, but, even if sauce-less, it was okay naman for me.
• The Kandingga or Albay Bopis (₱225) was good naman, but not extraordinary. If you order bopis in some karinderya in Mandaluyong or in Kidapawan or in Vigan, the taste would still be the same.
• The same can be said about the Sinigang (₱365), which was almost tasteless.
• The chicken offerings were sorta dry, including the fried chicken (₱200 per piece, or ₱630 per medium serving), and the Adobong Manok sa Gata (₱320). Truth: these weren’t bad naman, but what I remember ay ang dryness of the chicken.
• Must try for me ay ang Mayon Stuffed Pizza (₱500), which is, basically, calzone with spicy meat filling. If you’re not into spicy food, ignore those sili on top of the pizza; they’re there only as decoration. Filled with cheesy meat, this is very tasty, with the spice level making you want to eat more. This is, definitely, way, way better than the Bicolano (₱475) pizza that, really, is just laing on dough.
• For dessert, their version of the “sili ice cream” is… deceptive. Red Hot Lava (₱380) is, basically, scoops of vanilla, chocolate and strawberry ice cream topped with pili nuts and slivers of sili. You can make this at home, truth be told.

If you want to eat local in Legazpi City, try looking for some karinderya… or try the likes of Small Talk Café. You may have issues – as I did – with some of what’s there, but it does give you a sense of Bicolano food. No hotel food, I say.

But off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Small Talk Café is located at 51 Dona Aurora St., Legazpi City. For more information, call 0917 624 9279 or email smoltok_cafe@yahoo.com.

The Grab driver told us that the “downtown” area of Iloilo City has moved, from the older city center not too far from the city hall and provincial capitol, to the commercial area of Mandurriao. This shift means many of the older attractions are ignored, if not forgotten. And among these is Roberto’s, popular for selling siopao (hot buns) since 1978.

@outragemag Have you tried the supposedly best #siopao in #Iloilo? We #LGBT ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

With good word of mouth (and not just from the Grab driver, but also from the hotel’s staff, bank security guard, and so on), we checked the maker of, supposedly, the city’s “largest best-tasting siopao”. And kumusta ang experience namin?

Una, the place is easy to find. Locals know about this place, so – if you ask – you will be guided accordingly. Not that this is needed, actually, since the place is located in the historic street of Calle Real, a.k.a. J.M. Basa Street, which tourists tend to pass through if checking the older parts of Iloilo.

Ikalawa, the resto is old, complete with old furniture, those old mirrors, old photos and tarpaulins pasted on various parts of the resto, and so on. I doubt people visit for the glam, however.

Ikatlo, they have a karinderya system. Here, you are supposed to queue to order, and then find your own table/seat. The place can get full, so that take-out orders are common.

Ika-apat, the workers are… impersonal. No engagement of customers happens here; just order and pay.

Ikalima, kumusta ang offerings?

1. There are four types of siopao: the ₱180 Queen, ₱150 King, ₱100 Jumbo and ₱60 Regular. Aside from the size (e.g. the Queen is the biggest, at least they’re not patriarchal), the fillings also vary. The Queen, for instance, has bacon, Chinese sausage, chicken-pork adobo, and egg; while, for the King, remove the bacon). Yes, the siopaos we got were bigger-than-usual. And the dough used was soft. But, taste-wise, they were… not exactly memorable. Malaki and malaman but unremarkable.
2. The ₱115 bihon was served in a plastic bag; you, yourself, had to transfer it to the Styrofoam provided. This one didn’t have a lot of sahog except for those pesky chicken bones. And, sadly, it was quite tasteless.
3. The ₱45 meatballs were surprising, tasting like skinless lumpiang Shanghai.

Long queues form in front of Roberto’s almost every day, with many just ordering the Queen siopao. We’re on the fence here, on whether this is deserved. Because we know Iloilo has other offerings that deserve just-as-much if not even more attention.

And so off we go in search of more lafangan venues…

Roberto’s is located at 61 J.M. Basa Street, Iloilo City.

May select food sa Philippines that made such big impressions so that they’re now being mimicked in various forms. Iloilo’s batchoy, halimbawa – like Batangas lomi and Bacolod inasal – was already appropriated by makers of instant noodles.

@outragemag #LGBT tasting original #batchoy in #Iloilo via the grimy #netongslapazbatchoy ♬ original sound – Outrage Magazine

And so while in Iloilo City, we headed to one of the original makers of batchoy, Netong’s Original Special La Paz Batchoy, established in 1948 by Teodorico “Netong” Guillergan Sr., and try one of the country’s most distinct noodle soups.

Una, this place is easy to find. Located inside the Lapaz Public Market, surrounded by other batchoy venues, locals actually also know of this place, so you can be guided accordingly.

Ikalawa, the actual resto is… nothing special. Looking like a small karinderya, this not-classy place isn’t the cleanest-looking, with the varnish or paint of the wooden tables already peeling, the flooring already seeing better days, and so on. But you do get proper seating in a masikip venue that’s better suited for smaller groups.

Ikatlo, the workers are… perfunctory. They know what they’re selling, yes, but this isn’t a fine dining venue, so don’t expect to be pampered.

Ika-apat, now… kumusta ang food?

1. The place only really sells batchoy, and there are three variants: the ₱100 Super, ₱120 Extra, and ₱140 Mega. The differences are the sahog. We wanted to order the Mega, but ubos na. So we got the Extra, which had pork, beef, liver, entrails, crunchy garlic, chicharon, and so on. For ₱20, we also added eggs (raw, added into the broth). And yep… this one’s good, with the flavors mixing properly. Matamis na garlicky na salty, just as batchoy should taste.
2. The ₱100 dinuguan (pork blood stew) was actually good, not malansa (fishy or off-putting) since it’s properly cooked and flavored. Maasim-asim due to the vinegar used, though not overpowering, so that it could also be okay as ulam (viand).
3. The ₱30 puto that come in threes are actually hefty. This isn’t dry, nor too airy, so it’s actually quite filling.

Fact: Iloilo City was recognized in 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, stressing how some of its culinary offerings are really must-check. And yes, include batchoy among those that should be tried.

But off we go in search for more lafangan venues…

Netong’s Original Special La Paz Batchoy is located at Lapaz Public Market, along Rizal Street in La Paz, Iloilo City. Contact (033) 396 2189, or head to their Facebook page for more info.