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Want to attract clothes buyers? Use size-inclusive model photos

Fashion sector’s obsession with thin-size models may be counterproductive.

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Online fashion retailers clinging to the received wisdom that photos of thin models are the most effective way of selling clothes may want to think again, according to a new study examining the impact of size-inclusive model photos.

New research from the University of Bath, University of Groningen and Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam­­ shows a three-fold benefit to online retailers using size-inclusive model photos to showcase their ranges, which would allow customers to better assess the fit and style of the garments for their particular body types.

The researchers found retailers’ sales and costs would improve, customers would feel greater satisfaction and inclusivity, and the environment – as well as companies’ bottom lines – would benefit as expensive and wasteful clothing returns could diminish. And they challenged the long-held notion that thin models drive sales.

“We have seen some progress in portraying diverse body types – but that is largely restricted to advertising, rather than what the customer sees online when ordering clothes. There are a few honourable exceptions but models online are still very, very thin, as a rule,” said Dr Iina Ikonen, of the University of Bath School of Management and University of Groningen.

“The sector has this misguided notion that aspiration is key, and that any other approach than thin-size photos could damage their business. In fact, not one of our studies shows that own-size model photography negatively affects purchase decisions in comparison with thin-size photos, despite this being a key concern of the fashion companies we interviewed,” Dr Ikonen said.

The researchers found that thin-size models actually hindered online purchase decisions, through increasing the difficulty of assessing a product’s fit for customers with different clothing sizes. Thin-size models caused them to disengage as the retailer was not serving their needs.

“Our research showed that retailers employing greater body-size diversity fostered more inclusive and welcoming environments, and especially employing own-size models promotes equal treatment for diverse customers – all of which creates higher consumer well-being. Whereas the current online markplace stigmatizes consumers who feel their bodies are not represented by thin models,” said co-researcher Yerong Zhang of the School of Business and Economics, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam.

The research suggested the ideal approach for online retailers would be to show every item of clothing on models of various sizes, but the researchers recognized this could be costly, particularly for high-volume, fast-fashion outlets.

“A middle ground might be to use differently-sized models presenting different clothing items. This mixed strategy might help consumers of various sizes feel like their own size is being represented in online shopping environments,” Yerong Zhang said.

The costs incurred by using size-inclusive model photos could be offset by improved customer satisfaction and reduced product returns, which international regulators are scrutinizing with a view to cutting environmental harm.

“We know that poor fit is the most important reason for product returns – targeting customers with model photography featuring models of their own size would be key to addressing this issue,” she added.

Dr Ikonen welcomed retailers’ moves towards diversity in some areas but warned they should be wary of inadvertently creating the potentially alienating ‘plus-sizing effect’ and should ideally offer, and display, all of their clothes in all sizes, from extra small to extra large.

“We observed an issue with retailers showing off some of their clothes on thin models and simultaneously proudly pointing to their plus-sized ranges as part of their commitment to diversity and inclusion. The problem was that, often, the clothes showed on thin-size models were not available for plus-sizes. Essentially, these were two different ranges and that is unhelpful for customer inclusivity and positive sentiment – and that will ultimately harm their business,” she said.

The study – ‘One size does not fit all: Optimizing size-inclusive model photography mitigates fit risk in online fashion retailing’ can be read in full here. Dr Ikonen’s co-researchers are Yerong Zhang, Jiska Eelen and Francesca Sotgiu, all from the School of Business and Economics, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam. Dr Ikonen represents both the University of Bath School of Management and the Faculty of Economics and Business at the University of Groningen in the Netherlands. 

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Modern slavery is a business decision – not an accident

Many organisations focus on compliance, reporting and audits, yet fail to build the relationships and trust needed to identify and tackle exploitation. In some cases, competitive pressures and mistrust between firms actively prevent collaboration that could reduce risks. 

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Modern slavery persists because the way global supply chains are designed allows it to remain hidden, according to new research led by Professor Glenn Parry from the University of Surrey and Dr Mike Rogerson at the University of Sussex.  The findings argue that exploitation often stems from business decisions that cut costs by pushing work further down the supply chain, leaving companies with little direct contact with workers and less visibility over how they are treated. 

Around 27 million people worldwide are estimated to be living in conditions of modern slavery, embedded within the production of everyday goods and services. While governments have introduced laws to force companies to report on risks, the research suggests that disclosure alone is not changing behaviour in a meaningful way. 

Instead, firms often maintain distance from the most vulnerable parts of their supply chains. This distance can be geographical, organisational or even digital, such as the use of algorithms that control workers without direct oversight. As a result, companies rely on indirect signals rather than engaging directly with workers, leaving serious gaps in knowledge and accountability. 

The special issue on “Modern Slavery and Supply Chain Management”, published in Supply Chain Management, brings together insights from multiple international studies across sectors including construction, social care, logistics and global manufacturing. Drawing on interviews with practitioners, workers and experts, as well as analysis of corporate reports and policy frameworks, the work examines how governance, partnerships and digital systems shape labour conditions across complex supply networks. 

Glenn Parry, co-editor of the issue and Professor of Digital Transformation at the University of Surrey, said: “Modern slavery is a problem buried in supply chain structures and it is often the result of how those chains are built and managed. When companies prioritise cost and efficiency above all else, they create the conditions where exploitation can thrive.”

The research found that many organisations focus on compliance, reporting and audits, yet fail to build the relationships and trust needed to identify and tackle exploitation. In some cases, competitive pressures and mistrust between firms actively prevent collaboration that could reduce risks. 

It also finds that partnerships between businesses, governments and NGOs can help, but only when they are built on genuine understanding and shared goals. Superficial collaboration risks becoming a tick-box exercise rather than a driver of real change. 

A major recommendation is to shift focus from reporting to knowledge. Companies need to invest in understanding their supply chains in depth, including listening directly to workers. Bringing “upstream voices” into decision making is seen as critical to designing effective anti-slavery measures. 

Professor Glenn Parry added: “If we are serious about tackling modern slavery, we need to stop treating supply chain complexity as an excuse. It is often a choice. That means it can be changed.” 

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Long-serving CEOs may weaken innovation, study finds

Companies led by long-serving chief executives may become less innovative over time unless challenged by strong independent boards.

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A new study from the University of East London has found that companies led by long-serving chief executives may become less innovative over time unless challenged by strong independent boards.

The research examined 215 FTSE 350 companies over an 11-year period between 2010 and 2021. It explored how CEO tenure and independent directors influence a company’s “R&D knowledge stock”, which is the research, expertise and technological capability built through investment in innovation.

The study published in the journal Corporate Governance found that CEOs who remain in office for many years often become more cautious and less willing to back risky research and development projects. These companies were more likely to reduce investment in innovation and long-term technological growth.

Firms with higher numbers of independent directors were more likely to continue building innovation capacity with experienced CEOs and independent directors forming an effective partnership, to combine deep company knowledge with outside challenge.

However, both experienced CEOs and independent directors become more cautious and less willing to back risky research and development projects when the company fails to meet performance aspirations, suggesting that independent directors do not have stable risk preferences.

The findings suggest that innovation is shaped not only by technology and finance, but also by leadership culture and corporate governance structures.

Author Dr Igbekele Sunday Osinubi, of the Royal Docks School of Business and Law, said: “Long-serving CEOs can bring valuable experience and stability, but there is also a risk that leaders become too cautious or too attached to existing ways of thinking. Our findings show that independent directors play an important role in encouraging companies to continue investing in innovation, especially during difficult periods when firms may otherwise retreat from long-term research and development.”

He added: “This matters beyond individual companies. Innovation drives productivity, competitiveness and economic growth. The study highlights how governance structures can influence whether firms continue building the knowledge and technologies that shape future industries.”

The paper argues that regulators and policymakers should consider governance reforms and incentives that encourage long-term innovation strategies, particularly in firms led by long-serving executives. The findings may also influence how boards think about CEO succession planning, oversight and the balance between short-term financial pressures and long-term investment.

Osinubi’s research, “Long CEO tenure, independent directors and R&D knowledge stock: the moderating effect of performance shortfalls”, was published in the Corporate Governance: The International Journal of Business in Society

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Office owners or managers, take note: Increased risk of bullying in open-plan offices

In traditional open-plan offices it is easier to notice colleagues’ shortcomings and become irritated by them. If someone gets frustrated and takes it upon themselves to “do something about” a colleague’s behaviour, and there are no clear guidelines for handling such situations, there is a risk that it may escalate into bullying. Those who are subjected to bullying lack access to a private space for retreat. 

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Open-plan offices entail a clearly increased risk of workplace bullying compared with employees having their own office or sharing with just a few colleagues. This is shown in research from Linköping University, Sweden. 

“Increased bullying is a tangible negative consequence of how you choose to organise the workplace. It’s important to highlight this, as it hasn’t previously been examined,” says Michael Rosander, professor at the Division of Psychology at Linköping University.

Open-plan offices, where many employees share the same space, have become increasingly common. Employers often justify this development as a way to use premises more efficiently and to encourage creative interactions between employees. However, research has shown that open-plan offices do not promote health, job satisfaction or productivity.  

Until now, it has been unclear whether open-plan offices also affect the risk of bullying and employees’ motivation to look for another job. Through surveys of more than 3,300 randomly selected individuals in employment in Sweden, Michael Rosander has now provided an answer. The results are published in the journal Occupational Health Science. 

Thirty per cent of those with some form of office-based work reported that they worked in a traditional open-plan office with no access to private space. Thirteen per cent worked in so-called activity-based offices, where employees spend part of their time in an open-plan environment but also have access to designated rooms for tasks requiring peace and quiet. The remainder had their own office or shared one with only a few colleagues.

For traditional open-plan offices, the survey responses showed a clearly increased risk of bullying compared with those who had their own office or shared an office with only a few colleagues. The difference remained regardless of factors such as personality traits and the extent of remote working. This suggests that the problems are indeed caused by the work environment in the office.  

The researchers’ explanation is that in traditional open-plan offices it is easier to notice colleagues’ shortcomings and become irritated by them. If someone gets frustrated and takes it upon themselves to “do something about” a colleague’s behaviour, and there are no clear guidelines for handling such situations, there is a risk that it may escalate into bullying. Those who are subjected to bullying lack access to a private space for retreat. 

Activity-based open-plan offices, by contrast, showed no increased risk of bullying, likely due to the availability of private spaces. However, in both types of open-plan office, employees were more likely to consider changing jobs. One possible explanation is that activity-based offices also involve more distractions, according to Michael Rosander.

For employers who have introduced, or are planning to introduce, open-plan offices, there are some lessons to be learned. One is to be prepared to deal with irritation and conflicts before they escalate. Another is the importance of providing rooms where employees can work undisturbed. Placing individuals with similar needs and tasks near one another may also reduce the risk of disruption.

“Traditional open-plan offices are in themselves negative for the individual, for productivity, and make people more likely to leave their job. Social interaction also suffers. So it’s worth considering how to handle it,” says Michael Rosander.

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